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Archive for the ‘London History’ Category

A Taste of the Downton Abbey Lifestyle

Thursday, May 16th, 2013
Highclere Castle Downton Abbey Location England

Now that driveway looks rather familiar. Welcome to Highclere Castle! Also known as Downton Abbey.

Downton, Downton, Downton, DOWNTON!

It may surprise you fans from the Americas and Antipodes but us Brits are as infatuated with the Edwardian magnificence that is Downton Abbey as you lot are. The narrative twists and turns that drive the lives and romances of characters such as Lady Mary and cousin Matthew, Lady Sybil and Branson the Chauffeur, Anna the Housemaid and Bates the Valet, punctuated by the acerbic bon mots of the Dowager Duchess are utterly, utterly compelling.

And did I mention the costumes? Ooooh.

Downton Abbey

Credit: Masterpiece/Carnival Film & Television Limited

And as for the setting, well, you can’t do much worse than Highclere Castle. Which is a real place. A proper 19th-century grand house built upon the site of various other castles that have stood in this corner of Hampshire for about 1,000 years. The Carnarvon family has owned Highclere Castle since the 17th century.

Yet this is not only the impressive setting for the most successful costume drama since Mr. Darcy emerged from a pond with a wet shirt in the 1995 version of Pride and Prejudice. Indeed, no.

In 1922 the 5th Earl of Carnarvon with Howard Carter discovered the tomb of King Tutankhamun. As a result there’s a rather superlative collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts on display at Highclere that makes one go quite giddy at the knees.

Howard_Carter_und_Lord_Carnarvon_1922

Lord Carnarvon and Howard Carter giving each other a very well deserved handshake in 1922.

So the combination of Ancient Egypt AND lots of Downton excitement brings me to the crux of the matter. A spot of controversy for the London Perfect blog…

… for I am about to suggest * sotto voce * a day trip out of London.

Gasp!

C’mon, though. It’s for Downton. Just get yourself to London’s Paddington Station, pop onto a train to Newbury (although best check the timetable before you go) and in 52 minutes you’ll arrive at the station. Hail a cab and in moments you’ll be at Highclere Castle. Just take a peek at what you’ll see!

Now, before you get all spontaneous with this idea I urge some planning. Firstly Highclere is only open to the public on Bank Holidays and Sunday to Thursday during the summer months (lots of lucky people have their weddings at Highclere on Fridays and Saturday). Therefore so don’t even think about an autumnal or winter trip. Secondly the guided visits around the house, gardens and Egyptian collection are ticketed.

And all the prebookable tickets for 2013 are already gone.

Botheration.

But! There are some “walk up on the day” tickets available after 2pm, which would be well worth the risk of a train jolly out of London. And, worst case scenario, you do get there and find all the tickets gone there are some wonderful walks in the area that give you some magnificent views of Highclere.

Highclere Castle Day Trip from London

A summer walk and a beautiful view of Highclere Castle in Hampshire.

A spot of Engilsh bucolic bliss is a marvelously refreshing tonic to the excitement of London’s urban vim and vigour. Whatever happens on your grand day out to Highclere to taste the Downton life (who knows? You might bump into the butler of your dreams!) it’ll be well worth the adventure. If you’re thinking of a trip to London for next year and want to see Highclere Castle, do keep an eye on their website and remember to pre book your tickets well in advance.

 

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Zoë F. Willis is a writer and enthusiastic London resident. You can read more about her adventures and creative exploits at http://thingswotihavemade.blogspot.co.uk/

Image Credits: Highclere Castle by Richard Munckton, Lord Carnarvon and Howard Carter historic photo, Downton Abbey by Richard Munckton

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Pride and Prejudice in Regent’s Park this Summer

Wednesday, May 15th, 2013
Regent Park Spring Flowers London Zoe F Willis

A spring stroll through Regent’s Park in London

Gosh, what a glorious Early May Bank Holiday we have had here in London None of that A Foggy Day (in London Town) nonsense from the likes of Ella Fitzgerald et al. It’s been properly sunny, mild and as a result the city has become simply one of the delightful places in which to amble. In the world. FACT.

But where to amble? There are so many parks but my tip top favourite is…

… cue drum roll…

The Regent’s Park.

Between 1809 and 1832 the architect John Nash (1752-1835) – mastermind behind the Regent Street development that runs south to north through Piccadilly and Oxford Circus – designed the 400 acres and planned many of the striking neo-Classical terraces and properties that flank the park.

Regent's_Park_1830

A Map of Regent’s Park in 1830

Today Regent’s Park is also home to London Zoo, lots of sports fields for those of an active persuasion, an Open Air Theatre (of which more later) for the culture vultures and many a floral and bucolic pathway if leisurely strolling is more your thing.

And so let me unleash some suitably summery and floral images for your delectation. Get ready to “oooh”, “aaaahhh” and start completely replanning your own garden. Move over rambling country garden style. Formal is BACK.

Regent Park Spring Zoe F Willis

Elegance and spring colors at Regent’s Park

 

Regents Park Spring Zoe F Willis 4

Tulips galore at Regent’s Park

 

Regents Park Spring Zoe F Willis 2

Relaxing in the sunshine in Regent’s Park

Right and now you’ve had a moment with all that loveliness, get ready for something else that will make you feel a bit hot about the collar. You remember the Open Air Theatre I mentioned earlier? Well, they’ve a packed summer programme that includes To Kill a Mockingbird, A Winter’s Tale, The Sound of Music and…

…Wait for it…

Pride and Prejudice.

Pride and Prejudice Regent Park London

Pride and Prejudice in London’s Regent Park … coming this summer!

Weeeeeeeeee! Let there be jubilation in all things Jane and Austen! Let there be Elizabeth Bennet in an empire line dress! Let there be oh-so-handsome and moody Mr. Darcy in a frock coat! Let there be emotional highs, lows and moments of exquisite social awkwardness getting in the way of true love before…

Darcy and Bingley

Mr. Darcy and Mr. Bingley looking dashing on horses

… well, I won’t give away the ending for those of you who haven’t been privvy to the greatest love story of the past two hundred years, but let’s just say it’s AMAZING.

And you’ll get to see it all in the beautiful surrounds of Regent’s Park in the summer from June 20th to July 20th, 2013. What more could you ask for?

Crazy for You, Venue 2011 #2. Photo David Jensen

The Open Air Theatre in Regent’s Park. Photo: David Jenson

And finally, you want a quick taster of what might be on offer? Fair enough. Here’s London Perfect’s Pinterest board of Frock Coats and Swooning Ladies. We’ve a Darcy or two on there that should set the tone. See you in Regent’s Park this summer!

 

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Zoë F. Willis is a writer and enthusiastic London resident. You can read more about her adventures and creative exploits at http://thingswotihavemade.blogspot.co.uk/

 

Image Credits: Regent Park Map 1830 from Christopher and John Greenwood’s map of London, Pride and Prejudice by the Open Air TheatreMr. Darcy and Mr. Bingley, Regent Park spring photos by Zoë F. Willis

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Celebrating St. George – The Patron Saint of England

Monday, April 22nd, 2013
Saint George Raphael

St George – the Patron Saint of England

It’s almost April 23rd. Which means it will be St George’s day. You know, the patron saint of England. The red cross on the white ground that is the English flag that in turn is part of the Union Jack? Yep, that’s the cross of St George.

Union Jack St George Flag

Now you can spot the flag of St. George in the bunch!

Of late though – by that I mean since the 18th century – poor George has been receiving less attention, less celebration than his Welsh (St David), Scottish (St Andrew) and Irish (St Patrick really takes the biscuit when it comes to merriment on a feast day) saintly counterparts. Which is a shame as George has been a part of English cultural identity for the better part of 1400 years.

Not bad going for a chap martyred in Palestine somewhere near a small town called Lydda during the reign of the Roman Emperor Diocletian (284-305 AD). That’s pretty much all we know about the man. Since the 4th century the mythical layers that have built up around the saint range from the humdrum to the downright fantastical. George was supposedly an officer in the Roman army who converted to Christianity. He was killed for his beliefs not once, not twice, but THREE times, chopped into bits first time round, buried alive the next and burned in a fire the final time. Fortunately divine intervention …. ermmm … intervened and George arose unscathed. In addition he was credited with resurrecting people from the dead himself, causing wooden beams to shoot forth leaves, destroying idols and armies as well as the all important conversion of Pagans.

We can trace these particular legends back to the 6th century. A jolly long time ago. What’s rather interesting is that the first reference to St George in England is from the 8th century thanks to the Venerable Bede whilst there was certainly a church dedicated to George by the 9th. That’s quite a speedy uptake considering we’re in an age well before the internet. Or telephones. Or a reliable postal service.

UK_post_office_box

No wonder the Middle Ages are sometimes called the Dark Ages. How did people survive without a reliable post service?!

The English fascination with George became more intense during the High Middle Ages. You see, England as a country was starting to get a bit more belligerent, a bit keener on trying to conquer other people (like the Welsh, Scots and Irish … oh, as well as the French) and joining pan-European military ventures like the Crusades. A martial saint like George seemed as good a patron for such martial endeavours as any. English ships and armies sported the penant of St George with pride whilst his name was invoked as a battle cry during some of the bloodiest altercations of the period. Shakespeare’s “Cry God for Harry, England, and Saint George” just before the Battle of Harfleur in Act III of Henry V is a spine-tingling taste of how powerful and real the saint’s presence was to the Medieval and Early Modern Englishman.

St George the Patron Saint of England

I’m sure this is precisely the image all those medieval Englishmen had of St George before going into battle.

“That’s marvelously interesting”, I hear you mutter, dearest London Perfect readers, “but what about the DRAGON?!” It’s possibly not a surprise to learn that this event was a myth. Its origins are possibly from images in the Eastern Church that depict St George spearing a dragon, a common symbol for Satan, with a female figure in the background. She is supposedly the Emperor Diocletian’s wife, who was so impressed by George that she herself converted to Christianity … and then suffered a similar fate to George for her efforts. These images were probably brought back to Western Europe during the Crusades, becoming a visual source for the first written version of St George and the Dragon in the top literary bestseller of the Middle Ages, Jacopo de Voragine’s Golden Legend of c.1260.

Saint George Byzantine Icon

A Byzantine icon of St George from the Medieval period. Can you spot the princess?

Hence lots of Georges and dragons littering art and literature since then.

Oddly, although St. George’s day was a properly recognized feast day in England and continued to be so after the Reformation and the discarding of terribly popish practices like saint’s days, there were never set rituals or rules for how to celebrate. Even by the late Medieval period, how people observed April 23rd was particular to each community. Although venerated by all England, each Englishman had his own way of venerating the enigmatic St George.

Which is probably why today’s Englishman might morris dance, or consume his own body weight in beef or pretend to fight dragons to celebrate St George’s day. Want to celebrate St George’s day with a Morris Dance? Here’s a taster of how to Morris Dance.

But only with a select group of chums. In a slightly disorganized manner. Not an en masse manifestation of patriotic pride in our patron saint, like the Welsh, Scots or Irish. Which is a pity as it seems we used to be rather good at doing just that en masse, particularly moments before battle. But, in the meantime, dragon taming, Morris dancing and a hog roast in Trafalgar Square seem like a good way to go …

 

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Zoë F. Willis is a writer and enthusiastic London resident. You can read more about her adventures and creative exploits at http://thingswotihavemade.blogspot.co.uk/

 

Image Credits: Saint George and the Dragon by Raphael, British Flags by Matt Buck, UK Post Box by Andrew Dunn, Lego St George’s Day by Jonathan Beard, St. George Byzantine Icon

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The Queen’s Birthday Salute

Saturday, April 20th, 2013
Queen's Birthday London Celebrations

A birthday cake fit for a Queen

How do you celebrate your birthday? There will probably be cake, candles, gifts and maybe some silly party games and a celebratory glass of something sparkly. Now imagine you were Queen. And you have two birthdays.

Queen Elizabeth II Birthday Celebrations London

This is a very special lady. So special she warrants two birthdays.

Yes, two. A proper anniversary of one’s birth (in Elizabeth II’s case that’s April 21st) and an official state one that is held in the summer so that all one’s subjects can enjoy the celebrations with some hope of sunshine. And there’s a touch more than cake and silly party games involved.

Like, men in uniform. On galloping horses. And big guns going off in a traditional military gesture of respect and honour.

King's Troop RHA in London

Dashing men in uniform before the off.

Fortunately us mere commoners can watch all of this. It’s not going to happen on the Queen’s birthday itself this year as it falls on a Sunday and the big guns are not allowed to go off on a Sunday. But if you’re in London on Monday, April 22nd, 2013 and happen to be in the vicinity of Hyde Park at midday, the King’s Troop, Royal House Artillery, will be donning their smartest kits and bringing out the First World War 13-pounder field guns.

King's Troop Royal House Artillery Hyde Park London

Galloping horses! In Hyde Park!

“Hang on there!” I hear you cry. “Why the King’s Troop?! There’s been a Queen in charge for 60 years and counting.”  Hold on to your horses … it’s all because Elizabeth’s father, George VI, established the Troop in 1947. Noting that mechanization spelt the end of horse-drawn artillery in battle he decided to keep a ceremonial troop going for, well, ceremonial purposes. Like royal birthdays.

And at 12pm on the Queen’s proper day of birth anniversary (unless it’s a Sunday … keep up, keep up) the King’s Troop sound a rousing a 41-gun salute. That’s 21 guns to make up the standard Royal salute with an additional 20 on top of that because Hyde Park is a Royal Park. Fancy!

Queen's Birthday 41 Gun Salute Hyde Park London

Boom! That’s 1 down, 40 to go.

If you’re out Windsor way at 1pm there’s a 21-gun salute in Windsor Great Park whilst at the Tower of London there’s a whopping 62-gun salute at 1pm as well. 21 for the standard Royal Salute, 20 because the Tower of London is a Royal Palace and Fortress and an extra super special 20 guns on top of that because the City of London is an extra super special place.

Phew! That’s a lot of guns going off. And some mental arithmetic and a good working knowledge of military and royal protocol to make sure it’s the right number of guns in the right place on the right day. Imagine the mortification if it all went wrong.

For those of you unable to attend, here’s a Youtube clip of a Gun Salute in honour of HRH Prince Charles’ birthday, which should give you a flavor of what you’re missing. For those in London on Monday, I’ll see you there!

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Zoë F. Willis is a writer and enthusiastic London resident. You can read more about her adventures and creative exploits at http://thingswotihavemade.blogspot.co.uk/

Image Credits: Happy Birthday Cake by Will Clayton, Queen Elizabeth II by NASA/Bill Ingalls, King’s Troop before the Off by Charlie Dave, King’s Troop by Charlie Dave, 41 Gun Salute by dewet

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